The Wanderers

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Ourense

October 18, 2022

Believe it or not, I have been so busy that I have not had a chance to update you on my 2 day stay in the lovely Galician city of Ourense. This was a city that I had never visited in my time in Galicia and it was all new to me. Ourense is a vibrant city with a rich heritage. It is built on several hills spreading out on either side of the Rio Miño, the river I should have crossed if I had continued on the Camino Invierno. It is also the starting point on the Camino Sanabrés for those who have restricted themselves to the last 100kms walking to Santiago de Compostela, in order to obtain a compostela (the rule being that to get the compostela one needs proof of having walked from a hundred kilometres out). It is a city with thermal baths, some open to the public, some private. The water coming out of the fountain in the centre of the city was so hot I couldn't hold my hand under it. Without bathers, and with my foot still quite sore, despite some wonderful physio,

The Invierno continued - and stopped!

October 12, 2022

I have just realised that today is the twelfth and I haven't published anything since the sixth. On that day I Ieft A Rua early as I was expecting a very long, and fairly arduous day. It was pleasantly cool as I set off with a long steady climb out of town. The church bells rang until midnight and then started again at 8am The waymark at the church I knew that at least four pilgrims were ahead of me, and yet more pilgrims passed me in the dawn light, with another behind me walking at the same pace. Most of them, in fact, with one exception, all of them, were Spanish. The man following me caught me 7kms down the road at the first village, Alvaredos. The first "cutout" ...and more. This village was where, in 2016, a Señora opened the tiny little chapel to show me. There was no one in sight on this day, but the village delighted yet again. I am guessing that someone in the village has an artistic bent as, like last time

The Camino Invierno.

October 06, 2022

With my foot still not a 100% I decided to shorten the Camino and caught the bus from Ponferrada to El Barco de Valdeorras. This has shortened the Camino by two stages. The "new" part of Ponferrada from my hotel. I was especially glad that the bus journey was only an hour in length, as I felt quite queasy by the time we arrived. I headed straight to the Pension that I had stayed in last time, then wandered down to the river to see the people as they came out to promenade. This is a town with a population of around 12,000 people and so it has all facilities in it. The accommodation on this Camino is quite reasonably priced. Even though I am staying in single rooms, last nights room, with an ensuite, cost €30, and tonight's, also with an ensuite, is €25. The Pension I am staying in at A Rúa. ...and my room. Today I have walked from Barco to A Rúa, a distance from accommodation to accommodation of around 15kms. Both these towns are o

Destination, Villafranca del Bierzo, for the Camino Olvidado reached. Now a solo peregrina.

October 04, 2022

Leaving Labaniego was interesting. It was almost like we were following a drain down into the forest. Then as we were well into the oak forest we saw two orange jackets (with people in them) on the edge of one section of the forest. As we passed we realised the significance of the date - the start of October AND the start of the hunting season. Looking back at Labaniego. Setting up for hunting a house in the village of Arlanza and in Losada We were glad we had started early, knowing we had a full on day, but also the fact that we had got through the forest before all the signs went up cautioning people! We did kick ourselves that we hadn't look at our guide carefully enough as it would have been shorter, quicker, and definitely easier to have followed the road. We didn't make the same mistake later on separate sections of the stage, following the road several times, partly to shorten our day, but also to make it easier fo